11.4.11

Vermouth, straight up

If you think you don't like vermouth, you're wrong. It's understandable. Like most folks, myself included, you've probably just been drinking it incorrectly for, like, ever. The road to vermouth appreciation is an easy one, though. Just follow these steps:
Step One: That old bottle you've had for years? Pour it down the drain. It will be oxidized and beyond its shelf life—the key culprit in vermouth's wrongful vilification.

Step Two: Think beyond the major brands. They are fine to mix with, but there's much more complex stuff out there that will open your world to rich and delicate tastes you never knew existed. Try one of the bottles here.

Step Three: Drink it on its own. Slightly chilled and/or on the rocks. I know how crazy this must sound as you've probably only used drops of it in a Manhattan or a martini, but it is delightful. There are things that Europeans like that don't really work in the U.S.—siestas, Smart cars, Speedos—but drinking vermouth as an aperitif is one thing that does.

Step Four: Keep drinking it. A bottle really only lasts a month and, unless you'll be done with it in a week, stick it in the fridge.

Step Five: Repeat steps three and four. And then maybe give that siesta a try.
—Kevin Sintumuang

Carpano Antica Formula

[vermouth]
Meet the king of sweet vermouths. Incredibly smooth, it starts off caramel-like with notes of vanilla but ends with a pleasant bitterness. Transcendent on its own, it may also make the best Manhattan ever: try it with a more robust whiskey (like a Knob Creek or a rye) that can hold its own against Antica's intense flavors. 1 liter, $26
Martini & Rossi Rosato

[vermouth]
Don't let its garish color fool you. This is not a saccharine concoction thought up by marketing eggheads. Recently introduced stateside, Rosato is a mix of white and red wines that's crisp and fruity—there's lots of raspberry—with a surprising amount of spice. Add ice and prosecco and you've got summer in a glass. 750ml, $10
Dolin Blanc Vermouth de Chambéry

[vermouth]
If you've always thought vermouths were overpowering, then you'll appreciate all three Dolins (Rouge, Dry, and Blanc)—they are lighter and more delicate than most. The crisp and clean Blanc, with its elegant, subtle sweetness is the stand-out. Drink alone or in any cocktail that calls for Bianco vermouth. 750ml, $14
Cocchi Vermouth di Torino

[vermouth]
Resurrected this year from a 120-year-old formula, this Italian sweet vermouth produced in the Asti region of Italy could give Carpano Antica a run for its money. Amber in color and using muscato grapes as its base, there are notes of tobacco, orange peel and raisin as well as hints of cola and leather. 750ml, $19
Sutton Cellars Brown Label Vermouth

[vermouth]
I first tried this odd, cloudy, dry vermouth on tap (yes, on tap) at San Francisco's Alembic and was instantly smitten. One of the few produced in the states, it is made with wine from Sonoma that's infused with 17 botanicals. Citrus-y and refreshing, savor it chilled as you would any fine wine. 750ml, $18

For more in-depth information about Vermouth, READ HERE and HERE.
SOURCE: WSJ.com, Printed in The Wall Street Journal, page D5

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